Khalil Ur Rehman Shami
In the sepia-toned echoes of familial tales, my grandfather Aziz Khan (1924-2021) son of Hafiz Khan had been enchanting narratives of his sojourns from Chitral to the ethereal valleys of Swat. These expeditions, not of mere commerce but of an ancient trade woven into the fabric of mountainous romance, entailed the barter of hashish and sustenance. The journey, eternally entwined with the mystical allure of Swat’s prosperity. The route unfolded across the snow-kissed realms of Bashqar Gol, where winter’s icy grip summoned a hushed serenity. To choose this way is due to the presence of several check posts on the legal road to Chakdara city.
Embarking on a three-day hike through the rugged Bashqar Gol, my ancestors, accompanied by skillful horses, walked through the majestic mountainous ballet, crossing thresholds into Kalam Valley. It is a dream nurtured through ancestral whispers, a dream that yearns to decipher the secrets of Swat’s allure and prosperity. That has been beckoning like a time-honored love story, waiting to be explored. It took me more than a decade to pay a visit to Swat personally and to identify why it was that significant to move here for the sake of food security.
Finally the day came and I on boarded to the land of my dreams I have been yarning for since my childhood on (30 November 2023). My recent expedition to the scenic landscapes of Swat, Khyber Pakhtunkhwa (KPK), offered me an immersive meeting with the rich tapestry of Swati culture. A culture having harmonious amalgamation of four distinct communities: Pathans, Kohistani, Torwali (Chitrali), and Gujjars. Beneath the surface diversity, a cohesive force prevails, binding them together under the singular banner of Swati identity. This unity finds its roots in the benevolent rule of the esteemed Miangul Abdul Haq Jahanzaib, fourth ruler of the state well-regarded as Wali-e-Swat from (1949-1969). He descended his father Mian Gul Abdul Wadood (1917-1949) third monarch after Syed Abdul Jabbar Shah who was second (1912-1913) and Ashoka a Budist ruler (350 BC).
In an amazing conversation with a Swati local who could hardly spoke Urdu and maximum in Pashto was a jaw dropping moment for me. I, having conversational level of Pashto language proficiency understood his discussion completely. He uttered for more than thirty minutes and I kept hearing, leaning on my black alto. Anyhow, he said Wali-e-Swat treated us like a father fosters his children. He lament for our future, he used his intellect and exposure for the upcoming days this land and the people who are living here. He also said that the Nawab of Dir and Ruler of Chitral were comparatively cruel to their people. Moreover, he counted many practical contributions like Jahanzaib College (1952), land distribution among the people of Swat around 1969, political and educational exposure etc.
Prior to swat’s integration into Pakistan in 1969, Jahanzaib Sahib distinguished himself not only as a ruler but as a consummate diplomat. His adept negotiations with British rulers, whose roots extended deep into England’s colonial legacy. It is a testament of a nuanced statesmanship that laid the groundwork for the unity witnessed today. The ruling period of the son of Mian Gul Abdul Wadood wasn’t merely about wielding power. His reign was characterized by an unwavering commitment to treating the people of Swat with egalitarianism.
In stark contrast to the stereotypical autocrat, Jahanzaib Sahib avoided the trappings of power for a nobler cause—the upliftment of Swat’s denizens. His governance became a beacon of hope for upward social mobility, where he not only provided educational and trade opportunities but also championed a rare implementation of democracy within the confines of monarchy, setting an exemplary standard for others to follow.
The territory of Swat is considered as the most liberal district of KP. Having multicultural ethnic groups nobody tries to down other on the basis of revenue or showing strong family background. Once they were trapped by the barbaric Taliban and their sources however, it didn’t happen again when they stood up with the slogans of being capable of their protection. They didn’t experience any second insurgency from then and now and the reason is simple. From the green landscapes of Chakdara Bridge to the snow covered mountain peaks of Kalam all are Swati. This same minded nature of these people is the secret of their liberty and prosperity.
The defining moment of Wali e Swat’s legacy unfolded during the integration with the Pakistani government. His magnanimity knew no bounds as he meticulously distributed land among the populace. This judicious act became the bedrock for the prosperity witnessed today, with families leveraging their lands to cultivate cash crops and lush fruit gardens, transforming Swat into an agricultural haven.
Measured against other princely states in northern Pakistan, such as Dir, Chitral, Giltit, Wali e Swat’s governance stands not just as better but as an unparalleled exemplar of excellence. His rule, marked by diplomacy, social upliftment, and visionary leadership, etches an enduring narrative in the annals of regional history, ensuring that Swat remains a testament to the triumph of benevolence over tyranny.
My observation is definitely more than one page write up or two. However, I realized that the trip had been more than just a journey. Swat had captured my heart, and in its serene valleys and welcoming communities, I had left a piece of my soul. The people’s resilience, unity, and commitment to liberty had left an indelible mark on my spirit.
Leaving Swat was not a goodbye, I looked back from the window glass several times and tried to see it for the last time. Slowly and gradually it disappeared. The allure of its snow-kissed peaks, the warmth of its people, and the legacy of Wali-e-Swat had woven a spell that called me back. I had discovered a timeless story, and as I decided to return on the journey back, I carried Swat within me. It’s a cherished chapter in the book of my life, waiting to be revisited what was left this time. The mission is still in pending to see the foot prints of my grandfather from Bashqar Gol to Kalam valley through mountainous route.
